When you see the streets in San Pedro buzzing with golf carts, you'll quickly realize that getting around in Belize is different than back home. Whether by land, sea or air, there are quite a few options available to get you from point A to point B. Travel by boat out to the cayes, by car, bus or taxi throughout the mainland, and by plane anywhere with an airstrip. Belize has yet to see a railway, and the few paved roads and little infrastructure leads to a lot of dune buggies and bicycles as regular forms of transportation in some areas.
Airplanes
Far from the commercial jets many of us are so used to back home, Belize's skies are populated by low-flying Cessnas and other puddlejumpers zipping around the country. Sometimes with as little as four seats, including one for the pilot, these small planes are by far the fastest way to travel, if a bit more expensive than the bus or water taxi. The extra cost is quickly forgotten, however, as the planes fly quite low, allowing majestic views of Belize to stretch out below you. Have a camera handy.
Large international airlines like Continental Airlines and American Airlines have one or two daily flights from various airports to the Philip Goldson International Airport. Most flights to Belize leave from the U.S., however there are a few from Canada. The Central American airline TACA also has regular flights from various Central and North American countries. Once in Belize, you can choose between two commuter airlines operating within Belize: Maya Island Air and Tropic Air.
Air travel in Belize works much like a bus service. Fares are the same whether you buy tickets in advance or right before you board, and regular flights scheduled throughout the day means many people don't bother pre-booking. Flights can be booked either online or in person at the airport. It's recommended that you arrive at the airport at least half an hour before a domestic flight. Airports, ranging from paved airstrips to forgotten stretches of old road to long ribbons of cut grass, are located all over the mainland, as well as at San Pedro, Caye Caulker and Caye Chapel.
Flying within Belize can cost you anywhere from BZD$70-$240 for a one-way ticket. Some flights have 25 percent discounts for children under 13 and infants under two are free as long as they stay on your lap. For domestic flights, it's always cheaper to take off from Belize City's Municipal Airstrip than the Philip Goldson International Airport – sometimes by half the price. Some people actually take a taxi from the International Airport, a few miles away from Belize City, to the Municipal Airstrip in Belize City for a domestic flight, as it can still be cheaper even after cab fare.
These little planes can occasionally feel a bit unsafe; the Federal Aviation Administration's Flight Standards Service notes that Belize's civil aviation authority doesn't enforce international aviation safety standards. However, the government is working to improve safety standards, though progress has been slow due to limited resources. Most people who fly around Belize report feeling quite secure and usually have a lot of fun with the experience. Besides, a twenty minute flight to San Pedro from Belize City compared to an hour and a half by water taxi can be a big benefit to people in a rush to relax.
Buses
Busing in Belize is the cheapest and most popular way to get around the country. Though there are no municipal bus services, intercity buses frequent Belize's four paved highways, stopping at random points along the way to pick up or drop off passengers. The Northern, Southern, Western and Hummingbird highways see all types of buses, from retired U.S. school buses sputtering down the road to plush air-conditioned express coaches. In less developed areas, service is irregular, if it exists at all.
With three people crowded into a seat built for two, and sometimes no air conditioning, traveling by bus can be an interesting experience. As the only cheap way to cover large distances, public transit is very important to the people of Belize. Busing around the country is a great way to get up close and personal with Belizean culture and people.
Ticket costs range from BZD$2 to BZD$50 depending on the quality of bus you want and the distance of your trip. Tickets can be purchased from terminals in major towns, though this is not necessary as you can usually pay upon boarding. If boarding at a terminal, be sure to arrive about half an hour before departure. You can also hail a bus from the side of the road and tell the driver where you'd like to go. Buses accept only cash in Belize or U.S. dollars.
Driving
If you feel adventurous and crave independence, driving can be a great way to see the country. With only four paved highways (Northern, Western, Hummingbird and most of the Southern Highway) and very little signage throughout the country, driving can be a rough, albeit extremely rewarding, experience.
Compared to developed countries, Belize's road infrastructure is almost nonexistent, though it is quickly improving as Belize attempts to attract more tourists. Apart from the highways, road quality ranges from spine-jostling dirt tracks to smooth gravel. Many roads, especially in the south, occasionally get washed out to the point of being impassable. Even during the dry season a four-wheel drive vehicle is strongly recommended, as are spare tires. Speed bumps, called “sleeping policemen” by Belizeans, are common and often unmarked, even on the highways. Watch closely for them, especially near a town or village.
Belize is a small country and, on the map, distances between major towns and cities seem minimal. However with rough, winding roads, the driving time isn't as short as you might guess. Always give yourself plenty of time when planning a road trip. From Belize City it could take you two to three hours to drive the 84 miles to Corozal Town in the north, a little over an hour for the 52 miles to Belmopan in the west, and four to six hours to cover the 200 miles to Punta Gorda in the south.
Gas stations are frequent along the highways and major roads, but as you venture off the beaten path you'll want to fill up at every station, as you can't be sure when you'll see another one. Major companies like Esso, Shell and Texaco have a strong presence in Belize, some even with convenience stores attached. Both unleaded and diesel are available. Most gas stations have attendants who will pump gas free of charge, no tip expected.
Driving Safety
There are two basic laws of driving: Drive on the right side of the road; and seat belts are required by law. Signage, though seldom posted, follows North American standards, with warning signs in yellow diamonds and speeds posted in white rectangles. Speed limits, measured in miles per hour, are usually 55 mph on highways and 25 mph on other roads. Drunken driving is a major problem in Belize, so police checkpoints can appear anywhere in the country. Police are generally very friendly and don't accept bribes.
If you get into mechanical trouble in a rental car, your rental company may offer a replacement vehicle or send a mechanic out to help you. Roadside assistance doesn't really exist in Belize, so if you break down and can't get help from a rental company, you could be on your own. If you're in serious trouble or you get into an accident, call the police (911). Unfortunately, emergency services can be spotty at times, so having water, a flashlight and a cell phone handy would be very wise.
People who own or rent vehicles in Belize are generally better off financially. As such, vehicle break-ins are common. When parking, seek a secured lot or a well-lit area and don't leave any valuables in your car - even during the day. Hitchhikers are common, though it's sometimes a pretense for violent criminals.
Wildlife is common on the road and can pose a threat to vehicles, but the thing to be most cautious of is other drivers. One of the leading causes of death in Belize is traffic accidents. Some Belizeans claim they can get a license for a few hundred dollars, no paperwork or test required - another good reason to drive defensively.
Some dangerous things Belize drivers might do are pulling to the right and letting others pass before making a left turn, as well as passing on the right of cars attempting to make a right turn, even at highway speeds. Keep an eye out for pedestrians, especially children, who may dart onto the road. Pay special attention to bicycles, they can be unpredictable and rarely abide by any traffic rules.
Once you get used to driving in Belize, it can be a great way to experience what no tour company can give you: exactly what you want. The freedom and adventure you get with driving can be wonderful, just stay alert and drive cautiously at all times.
Licenses, Insurance and Car Rentals
You can drive in Belize with an international driver's license or with a license from your home country for up to 90 days, after which you must obtain a Belizean driver's license.
There are many car rental companies in Belize, mostly in Belize City, all with varying rates, insurance policies and customer service quality. International rental companies like Avis, Budget and Hertz can all be found in Belize City and at the Philip Goldson International Airport. Rates are lower during the rainy season and can range anywhere from USD$70-$140 a day. During high season, rentals can go fast, so book in advance. When renting a vehicle, inspect it carefully before driving away. The roads in Belize are hard on tires and flats are common. Make sure the tires are in good condition and the vehicle has a good spare and a jack.
Considering the road conditions in Belize, insurance is recommended, whether from your own country or through the rental company. Check with your credit card company, as rental insurance is occasionally provided. All rental companies offer insurance and will always try to sell it to you. It can range from USD$5-$15 a day. Read all insurance policies very carefully; sometimes credit card insurance won't cover four-wheel drive vehicles or won't insure in certain situations. Make sure you know your deductible too. Even if you're paying a lot for insurance you may still end up having a USD$3,000 deductible.
Some rental companies will put a hold or deposit on a credit card until the vehicle is returned. This might make a credit card useless for the duration of your trip, so make sure you have other sources of funds.
Taxis
As soon as you step out of the international airport in Belize, you'll find dozens of taxis waiting for you. Taxis are also available in Belize City and most of the major towns. They can generally be found in the center of town or can be ordered by phone. If you're staying at a hotel, they can usually make the call for you.
Taxis don't have meters in Belize, so make sure you know the price before getting in. Fares for inner city travel is about BZD$3-$10, plus BZD$1 for each additional passenger. It's about BZD$50 for four people from the international airport to Belize City. Fares are often fixed within towns and cities; outside of town they charge by distance. Rates are usually more expensive in the more populated areas.
Authorized taxis in Belize have green license plates. Don't get into a cab with more than one person in it and don't allow the driver to pick up others along the way. It's not customary to tip taxi drivers, unless they carry your bags or give you extra service like a guided tour, in which case a couple of dollars is appreciated.
Boats
Much like the buses, water taxis are a great way to soak up the culture of Belize, as they are commonly used by commuting locals and are the principal way of getting around the cayes. These boats are 40 feet long, with a capacity of 40 passengers, and fly across the water at impressive speeds. The water around Belize is perpetually choppy, so the speed and the waves can make for a bumpy ride. If you have a problem with seasickness, come prepared. Life jackets may or may not be provided, and are never required. Some of the taxis are covered, others are open to the rain and splashing water, so be sure to bring some sort of waterproofing to avoid getting totally soaked. While the rollercoaster ride can bother some, most passengers love the wind in their hair and the cool ocean spray on their skin.
Water taxis run every hour or so during the day between Belize City, San Pedro and Caye Caulker, with stops to Caye Chapel available upon request. A new route between San Pedro and Chetumal, Mexico has also recently opened up. A trip from Belize City to San Pedro will take about an hour and a half and cost between BZD$15 and BZD$20, with discounts for round trips. There are two trips daily between San Pedro and Corozal which cost BZD$45. To buy tickets, head to the Marine Terminal by the Swing Bridge in Belize City, or the piers on Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker. Passengers are generally permitted two pieces of luggage, and other large objects like bicycles are allowed if space permits, though there may be a small surcharge.
Bicycles, Motorcycles and Scooters
Cycling, as a sport, is popular in Belize, especially in the Cayo District. It's a great way to explore the quiet towns and untamed wilderness with several cross-country and mountain biking tours available. Bikes are often used among locals as a mode of transport and are becoming popular in urban areas as road conditions make rural cycling difficult. Though many cyclists choose to remain off the dangerous roads in Belize City, quieter places like San Ignacio, Placencia, San Pedro and Caye Caulker are great for casual bike rides.
You should have no problem finding a local bike rental shop in tourist areas. Rates are usually USD$2 an hour for bicycles and USD$8 an hour for scooters, with daily discounts available. Hotels will sometimes offer complimentary bikes to guests as well as scooter rentals. Rental bikes can vary in quality from shiny new mountain bikes to modern art pieces with bent frames and coaster brakes, so be prepared for anything.
Motorcycles and scooters, while available, aren't very popular among locals or tourists yet. The unpaved roads are hard on small vehicles and careless drivers can make your trip dangerous. For the adventurous and cautious rider, however, a motorcycle can give you an unparalleled travel experience. Just remember to always keep your eyes open, make sure you're visible to other drivers and bring a spare tire.
Trains
Belize used to have a small private railroad during the early 20th century along what is now the Hummingbird Highway. It stopped running in 1937 and no trains run in Belize to this day.
Golf Carts
Since most cars aren't allowed on the cayes, golf carts are the vehicle of choice on Ambergris Caye, adding to the island's charm. Golf carts are the most popular way to get around and explore San Pedro and are available in gas and electric. Electric carts are quieter and cleaner, but you'll get more power and distance out of a gas cart.
There are several golf cart rental agencies in San Pedro. A four-seater cart usually rents for around USD$50 a day or around USD$275 a week. A valid driver's license is required to rent and drive a golf cart. Golf carts are also also popular on Caye Caulker and Caye Chapel.
The same traffic laws apply to all vehicles in Belize - drive on the right side of the road, no speeding, no drinking and driving - but golf carts are a little different. There are no traffic lights on the islands and hand signals are used instead of signal lights.